Day 79: Blackford to Langholme

Truly a day from Hell! It started OK. Well, a little early as the birds decided to party at 0430 to welcome another glorious day, then the sheep in the next field decided to join in: so, although we stayed in our tent till 0600 we did not manage much more sleep. We breakfasted on boiled eggs, bread and coffee and were decamped, packed and ready to go in good time... Before any other intrepid campers had emerged from their tents and/or caravans. We knew this day was to be a difficult one as the navigation had not proved easy in the planning with a dearth of national trails, indeed any trails, in the area. There is an abandoned railway which had, in part been given over to a bicycle way but whether the rest of it was navigable we had yet to determine. The day was longish tho' not over long (about 25km): so we set off along the lanes till we came to a spot we could enter the disused railway. We followed it along the public access bicycle way as long as it went then had to return to the lanes until we reached Longtown (7km along our route) where we stopped for a rest and a cool drink followed by a chat with the locals who assured us that the railway was navigable although a bit overgrown in parts. In parts? Hmmmm!

Our first challenge was to find a spot where we could gain access to the track! The point at which we should have been able to was at the bridge in the town, but a late factory had been built on it with all entries locked, it being Sunday! However we climbed down to the Esk River 

and followed a small riverside track hoping that it would eventually lead us to the disused railway. Which it did! (with a bit of fudging) Yippee, a small success. The track led us through gentle rural lands with grazing sheep

and cattle, 

who took little notice of us as we trudged on. As we crossed a small bridge we noticed across the way, our first glimpse of Scotland in a flag marking the boarder! Whoo Hoo!

Although, because the boundary weaves about a bit, we realised that it would be a while before we actually crossed it. Little did we know how long that would be! 

We passed by an old railway station that had been converted to a home and again sought some local knowledge about the navigability of the track up to the township of Rowanburn (accross the river in Scotland). And in particular, the state of the old railway bridge which would be integral to our crossing the River Esk into Scotland. She assured us that all was fine and so we continued on our way! The track was fine, as she had indicated, until we reached a spot called Willow Pool... the name should have warned us! It was not only boggy, but flooded and so we retreated to higher ground, had some lunch, then pushed on through the bracken, brambles, nettles and trees until the track became a little more navigable.

By then we were getting quite weary and looking forward to reaching Scotland!

Influenced by our experience at Willow Pool, when we came upon a farm track leading up to higher ground we left the railway and headed up. Big mistake. The track disappeared and we were left, once again bush bashing our way through the ever steeper terrain with only the deer for company. After being turned this way and that by impenetrable bushes and barbed wire fences an hour later, we ended up back where we started and beat a hasty retreat back to the railway track and carried on down to Riddings Farm and the bridge to Rowanburn. Only 10km to go! Yes, sure!

When we got to the supposedly navigable bridge we were treated by a serious fence that would keep even us out!!!

So, what to do now. We sat on a wall and, like Paddington Bear, had a little think. There appeared to be a further abandoned railway line which followed the river further upstream to a B road where there was a bridge. It added more km but we had no other option: so off we toddled! But not for long! The gods really had it in for us this day! Remember we are only a stone throw away from Scotland and the Right-to-Roam laws just on the other side of the valley.

Then this...

Foiled again. This time it meant serious rerouting but nothing for it but to slog on and pound the roads. We climbed up onto the road, rang our B&B to let them know we would be late and pushed on, our teeth gritted and our backs bent!

We eventually crossed into Scotland 

and both the landscape and our mood changed. It was harder going as the terrain became more hilly. But what views!

And eventually we arrived WOW! This old Whiskey Distillary is just across the road from our B&B.

 We were welcomed into a lovely room and instantly decided that we would take a day off tomorrow and there was a vacancy so here we are. Ahhhhhhhhhhhh!